‘Amore di Vetro’. Il mercoledì 16 novembre Marcel Schenk e Simon Gietl hanno aperto ‘Amore di Vetro’ (800m, M5, R) una nuova via di ghiaccio e misto sulla parete NE del Pizzo Badile.
La stagione del freddo inizia subito con il botto grazie allo svizzero Marcel Schenk ed il sudtirolese Simon Gietl che mercoledì 16 novembre su una delle sei grandi pareti nord delle Alpi, il Pizzo Badile, hanno aperto una nuova via di ghiaccio e misto.
Il pomeriggio del 15 novembre le due guide alpine sono partite dal parcheggio in Val Bondasca per la capanna Sasc Furä e poi la spalla all’inizio dello Spigolo Nord. Da lì hanno visto da vicino le condizioni della parete e, a causa della neve non ottimale, hanno deciso di battere una traccia fino alla base della via per essere pronti per la mattina successiva. Dopo aver depositato del materiale sulla spalla sono poi ritornati alla capanna dove hanno dormito. Con le prime luci del 16 novembre i due sono ripartiti e hanno raggiunto la base della via. Racconta Schenk “Le condizioni sembravano buone e seguendo una sottile lingua di ghiaccio, spessa soltanto un paio di centimetri, siamo partiti verso l’ignoto. Già al primo tiro ci siamo resi conto di quanto fosse seria la faccenda. Mettere delle protezioni era difficile ed in alcune sezioni semplicemente impossibile. Ma il team funzionava e abbiamo guadagnato velocemente quota. Dopo tre ore abbiamo raggiunto il nevaio a metà parete, dove ci aspettava il cuore della via. Una striscia di ghiaccio, bellissima e selvaggia, ci ha portati verso l’alto. L’arrampicata si manteneva difficile. Ci siamo protetti con chiodi, pecker e nuts, le nostre viti da ghiaccio corte erano troppo lunghe, i Camalots invece non riuscivamo a metterli nelle fessure ghiacciate. Dovevamo stare attenti mentre arrampicavamo, spesso con le piccozze picchiavamo sul duro granito, oppure con i ramponi perforavamo il ghiaccio sottile”.
Siccome a volte non era possibile fare sosta i due hanno dovuto arrampicare in conserva per lunghi tratti. Alle 15:00 hanno raggiunto la cima, poi sono scesi lungo lo Spigolo Nord. Racconta Schenk: “La via incrocia un paio di volte la via Cassin e la Linea Bianca, nella parte alta invece corre a destra della Via Memento Mori. Diciamo che, in queste condizioni, la nostra Amore di Vetro è una logica via invernale. Una maniera moderna di interpretare l’alpinismo di oggi”.
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